Norm Abrams Adirondack Chair
Build A Comfy Spot To Find Restful Respite
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Over the years, I have learned that patience can open doors to opportunities that may not have been possible. This Adirondack chair was made in The New Yankee Workshop by Norm Abram.
Although projects similar to this one are rather common fare for most woodworking magazines, hasnt offered one to readers for more than 10 years. The project has been discussed, of course, but for one reason or another, it never happened. Then one day the phone rings and a representative of The New Yankee Workshop asks if wed like to work with Abram to build the most popular project ever shown on the show.
Abram would build a chair and give it away as a promotion for the show and Id build a duplicate as a project for the readers. Perfect!
OK, some of you are certainly wondering, What is it like working with Abram right there in The New Yankee Workshop? Let’s get to the point. It was Norm-al, pardon the pun.
After removing all the misinformation and myths, Abram is a friendly, easy-going woodworker who works in a well-equipped but not overly-equipped woodshop. Abram was at ease there. And its not a TV studio set with woodworking equipment, but a real woodshop. How fancy? This is a shop that home woodworkers can own.
Working with Abram was fun, to be sure. But I spent years working in commercial shops building hundreds of projects while working with others. Abram is a well-known celebrity. However, I felt right at home with his friendly personality and easygoing nature.
Never Forget The Norms Words Of Wisdom
Before we use any power tools, lets take a moment to talk about shop safety. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. Remember to always wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
An Improved Adirondack Design
Now back to the project at hand: After getting acquainted at The New Yankee Workshop, Abram and I first inspected the original Adirondack he built, one based largely on a design his father had used years ago. It had weathered well and withstood the elements for more than a decade in continuous outdoor duty. He explained that it was made of cypress, which is a great choice for outdoor projects. Also, he had provided a supply for the new chairs.
We next reviewed the chair plans, one of those famous measured drawr-ings Abram offers viewers at the conclusion of each show. This copy had some notes about minor modifications Abram intended as improvements. The last thing we did before cutting wood was review several templates he made for the original chair and saved throughout the years. We used these patterns for the curved parts. These drawings are part of the project plan.
If you begin the project by preparing the patterns and stock to the rough sizes the building will move along pretty quickly. Our chairs were completed in less than one day, while we worked at a steady but manageable pace.
Cut both chair side pieces at the same time by nailing them together in a waste section of wood. Then, use a band saw to cut along the template line and sand the edges.
Start At The Bottom
This chair is constructed from the ground up. The first pieces you need are the two sides that slope back from your front, vertical legs. Use the pattern to trace their shape on the stock, then cut them out using the band saw. Abram suggested that we attach the sides at the ends with the waste material, and then stack cut them both. This will save time. To smoothen the surface, we then drum-sanded both the sawn edges.
Next use a gauge block and a miter saw or table saw so you can repeat the same length cut exactly for the lower rear crosspiece, the front crosspiece and the seat slats. Use the pattern that provides the curved shape of the lower rear crosspiece. (Abrams frugal Yankee blood was evident when he said that the waste piece creates the perfect curve for the rear seat stool slat by using slightly more stock than needed. After band sawing, smoothen the edges and make sure to save the waste piece for later.
Begin the assembly by attaching the lower rear crosspiece of the chair to the sides. Use a marine-grade or waterproof glue and stainless steel screws for lasting results.
A Little Assembly Work
First, join the sides together with the lower rear and front crosspieces. The crosspieces overlap the sides and care should be taken that the ends are flush to the outside edges of the sides. This will ensure that your chair is square when you build it.
Most of the parts for the chair are assembled with screws. In some cases, you may need carriage bolts, nuts, and washers. We used stainless steel fasteners knowing theyd stand up to the rigors of life outdoors. Although they are more costly than coated or plated fasteners in the long-term, these are still a better choice. Screw lengths are 1 except where noted. We also used outdoor adhesives. Abram used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 55200. Because my chair would be shipped to the shop in Ohio, I just screwed my parts together so it could be disassembled and more easily shipped. Later, back home, I re-assembled my chair using Titebond III because I couldnt find the product Abram used. The Midwest doesn’t have the same need for marine-grade adhesives that the coasts do.
Pre-drilling all screw holes is important for two reasons. To prevent splitting, drill a pilot hole. Also, countersink enough to accept a wood plug later. The chair’s appearance will be improved by the use of a plug. It will also increase the chairs durability. We used a bit that drilled the hole and counterbored for the plug in the same operation.
Drill 110 cm holes through the side members and front leg to accept stainless steel carriage bolts. Use a clamp to hold the parts in position; the leg should be flush to the sides front edge and 11310 cm up from the leg bottom to the bottom edge of the front crosspiece.
Place the benches on both sides. Next, attach the lower rear crosspiece. When thats in place, turn the work over and fasten the front crosspiece. Use a pair of screws for each connection placing them about from the edges of the board.
The two front legs will be attached next using three carriage bolts measuring 5 cm in length. Clamp the legs in position before drilling. The correct position is 11 from the bottom of the leg to the bottom of the front crosspiece.
When locating the bolt holes, arrange them in a triangle as shown in the diagram below. Following the diagram carefully prevented me from placing a hole where a screw for the front crosspiece might be located.
Attach the legs with the carriage bolts, heads to the outside. To prevent the head turning when tightening nuts, first seat the bolt head using a hammer blow. Then, engage the square corners beneath the head in the wooden.
Bolt the legs and side members together, bolt head to the outside with a nut and flat washer inside. Use a hammer blow to place the square shank beneath the head. The shank will stop the bolt turning in the hole.
Arm And Arm Supports
The next parts to prepare and attach are the arms and arm brackets. Each requires use of a pattern and should be cut on the band saw. Sand the edges as before. Additionally, the top edges of the arms should be eased using a roundover bit in a router. We routed only one edge, which designates it a top. So doing will create a right and left arm so choose your edges accordingly.
We attached the arm brackets first. The top, which is the widest part of the bracket, should be positioned flush to the top of each leg. It should also be centered on the legs width. Clamp each one in place then drill and countersink for the upper screw in each bracket. You can do the same for the lower screw, but you will use a shorter, one-inch screw.
With the arm brackets in place, attach the arms to the front legs and bracket. Use the diagram at left to position the arm correctly before fastening. Again, be sure and use adhesive on each step of assembly as you proceed.
Position and clamp the arm bracket then drill and countersink for two screws. The support’s top edge should meet the top of your leg. It should also be centered in the leg’s width.
Attach the arm to the bracket and leg using three screws. Place the arm so that there is a 310 cm clearance from the leg. Use a spacer to help position it. The arm overhangs the front edge of the leg 1-120 cm.
Building The Back
Now prepare the upper rear crosspiece. Use the page 41 pattern to prepare the part. The inside cut is not just curved but also at a 30-degree angle. The curve can be cut by tilting the bandsaw table. Then return the band saw table to 0, or square, and cut the ends. Sand the edges.
The upper rear crosspiece is attached below the chair arms. Use clamps to hold the piece in place as you position it correctly, that is, with a 20 distance between the inside edges at the backs of the arms. This could leave the arms with an overhang at the outer edge. There should be sufficient space to secure the arms and crosspiece with two carriage bolts at each end.
Use a spring clamp to hold the parts in place while drilling the holes for the bolts. Once you are done drilling the holes, attach the four bolts.
At this point, your Adirondack chair should begin to take shape. Only the last step is to plug the screw holes.
Cut the upper rear crosspieces inside curved edge at a 30 angle. Then return the band saw table to 0, or square, and cut the round ends.
Place the crosspiece at the top of the back with clamps. The arms should be 2015 cm apart. Drill each side for 2 carriage bolts.
Back Slats And Seat Slats
The back slats are the first slats to make. Prepare the back slats by using the patterns for the top edges as shown in the diagram on page 41, then band saw the shapes. The top edges of both the back and seat slats must be rounded using a roundover bit mounted on a router. To ensure that the edges are correct, you should fan out the back pieces.
Now install the back slats. Proper spacing of the slats will give you the perfect look. Start with the center slat, placing it dead center in the back. For each back slat I used four screws. After making sure that the top was in place, I added three more. You must drill the countersink and screw holes for the upper crosspiece at an angle. Drill straight into the crosspiece but not into the back slat.
Next, install the outer back slats. Position the bottom of the slat 3 cm from the inside of the side piece. Secure it, then position the upper portion so that it touches the inside edge of the arm. Fasten it. Once both outside pieces are in place, the remaining two intermediate slats are merely positioned with equal spaces between their adjoining slats.
Now its time to install the seat slats. Start at the front with the front edge overhanging the front crosspiece by about . Attach the end with one screw to each end.
Continue to add seat slats allowing spacing between them and fasten each slat with one screw at each end. The final seat slat is the one with the curve, which nests into the curve of the back. Allow water to run off the back and between this slat.
Start installing the back slats with the center slat first, then the outer slats. Next, place the last two intermediate slats with equal spacing among their neighbors.
Finishing Touches
You should give in to the temptation of trying it before you finish the chair. This is a very comfortable chair that will not disappoint a mother-in-law who has a difficult time.
I used some fall-off Cypress to cut 60 plugs from the board for filling in the holes created by countersinking screws. I used a narrow chisel to pop the plugs loose from the board. I stuck the plugs into the holes and left them proud. The excess material was easily removed by a flexible, fine-toothed saw.
When all the plugs were glued in and trimmed, I gave my chair a good sanding (#150 grit). The relatively soft cypress sands easily. I ensured that any sharp edges were smoothed out while sanding.
I decided to leave the cypress unfinished and allow the elements to eventually turn the light brown natural color to a silver gray. The color should match my hair in 10 years. PW
